Makeup Artistry Tips
Obviously, if you know me at all, you know that I am a brush user. Not just because I’m a professional makeup artist, but because I’m a painter at heart. I remember seeing my first foundation makeup brush. It was in the mid-90’s. I was freelancing for a few weeks at a cool makeup line carried at JC Penneys. It was a bit like Ultima II meets the original Urban Decay. It had no staff, no support, no branding or marketing. I don’t even remember the name of the line, but it was gone within a year.
However, they had a cool little brush line and within that, a foundation brush. It was about the size of my thumb. So small in today’s brush world. I was fascinated with it. Makeup brushes at the time were more powder focused. They were also so much smaller than today’s brushes. Even lip brushes in the 90’s were slim and petite. So much has changed.
So I took this foundation brush to a makeup trainer I worked for with one of the big brands. I knew this brand was developing a brush line and thought a foundation brush would be great. I suggested it be bigger and we sent the brush to NY with notes. I do not know if my suggestion was taken into consideration but the following year, this brand came out with a foundation brush. (I like to think I had something to do with it!) And the foundation brush became a staple.
This is also a time when many consumers were moving away from cream based foundations into liquids. I think brushes make a lot of sense with liquid makeup because they don’t soak up any of the moisture in the product. Unlike a sponge, using a brush gives the finish that the formula is made with. Where fingers add heat and sponges soak up product, a brush is kind of a neutral applicator. It has less influence on the product than other methods. This is especially true of the very popular silicone based makeups in today’s market.
Some other aspects of using a makeup brush are that it allows for a thin layer to be painted on the face and doesn’t pull or tug on the skin. It is very sanitary as well because it can be frequently cleaned and doesn’t tend to harbor bacteria. And now with so many kinds of makeup brushes, we have options on coverage and finish.
Paint style brushes are my favorite as they lay thin layers on and really can enhance a demi to dewy finish on the skin. They are also great for sensitive and mature skins.
Buffer brushes which are very popular, and fast, tend to activate the makeup (more motion with the brush) and can create a fuller coverage and more matte texture.
Different brushes will help enhance different finishes and also apply different amounts of product. Some days you can use a wispy brush for a natural look, or a buffer for more coverage, a silk for an “airbrushed” look, or a paint brush for a more elegant dewy finish.
Some people hate using a brush. I think using brushes requires a bit of patience. Brushed makeup might take a bit longer to dry down, or “set up”, but they are more versatile. They tend to need thin layers rather than one big application. They also take a bit more skill. Too much makeup on a brush can create streaks and not enough can make it really time consuming or patchy. Brushes have to be laid on the skin in a particular way. This is why buffer brushes are so popular I believe, as they are rubbed around in a circular motion.
As an artist I have used fingers, sponges, machines and brushes to apply makeup. Thousands of them! However brushes are for me the best method. They give me so much control over the end results. Depending on the makeup formulation and finish I can choose the brush that gives me what I want to achieve. I just need to have a vision. Brushes are our most important and essential tools.
So, if you are a consumer, I’d say use what you like and keep whatever that is clean. I hope you will try something new however. A good foundation can have different “feels” or “looks” depending upon how you apply it. Imagine being able to create that simple classic day look or a red carpet feel just by changing your applicator!
Whew. So that wraps up “Ways to Apply Foundation”. I’ll be adding some archived videos on the subject as well. Thanks again and see you next time.
-Terri
*photo is of the first brush line I created in the late 90’s. See how small they are?